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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-19-2017, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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long time lurker, first time owner

1977 Silver Shadow 2, cosmetically maybe an 8, has a bit of 'deferred maintenance'.

I have wanted to own one of these for about 20 years, finally found the time, cash, and what I thought was the right one to buy. Delivered to my shop, I have yet to drive her as I do not trust the hydraulic system past my driveway. Been doing countless hours of research on systems, tools, reading the shop manual, etc. Usually do all my own work; that is about knowing what is there more than saving any money. It is fun in a sadistic way... I have done several restorations (beemers & muscle cars) plus I build, restore, and maintain boats so I am thinking (hoping) I can handle it.

Anyway, while doing this research and trying to be overly prepared before I started anything, I decided to clean and wax. Car had been sitting uncovered in a warehouse for about 5 years so clean, clay, wax made a huge difference. But- I got wax on the top of the grill and now I can see micro scratches there from certain angles in the right light. How bad did I blunder? Never experienced that before. If I cannot figure it out I may have to start a thread on it- researched on this site and all over the interwebs for 2 hours and gave up.

Anyway, despite my early and possibly expensive gaffe, I love it cannot wait to put some miles on. Work on the hydraulics will start next week and hope to be driving by the Holidays.

Cheers

Jim (Seattle)
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-20-2017, 10:01 AM
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Welcome Jim!! Well it seams like you got a real land yacht . Enjoy it. The good thing is you have researched the RR/B ownership experience so you're not going in blind. Nice looking car! I can't help you with the micro scratches on your grill, maybe some mild chrome polish could eliminate them. Either way, get her up and going and drive her. These cars need to be driven.

Best of luck
Mark
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-20-2017, 01:03 PM
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Unless I'm mistaken the grilles on these cars are stainless.

I know there have been multiple discussions either here, on the Australian forums, or both about this and polishing them. (Unless my memory is reaching all the way back to the RROC-US forums.) I believe the headlamp surrounds are also polished stainless, not chromed.

Brian

The opposite of a correct statement is a false statement. But the opposite of a profound truth may well be another profound truth.
~ Niels Bohr


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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-20-2017, 02:01 PM
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Headlamp surrounds are definitely stainless. I have a complete Baldor polishing setup here. Whenever buffing near trim it is advised to "mask off" the trim or suffer the consequenses of compoundindg swirls. Happich polish or even a toothpaste with abrasive will work in one direction only with a clean microfiber cloth .
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Headlamp surrounds are definitely stainless. I have a complete Baldor polishing setup here. Whenever buffing near trim it is advised to "mask off" the trim or suffer the consequenses of compoundindg swirls. Happich polish or even a toothpaste with abrasive will work in one direction only with a clean microfiber cloth .

To someone with experience this advice above may make sense, but I am still not real sure what to do. For instance there is not much info online on how to use this "Happich polish"; even what looks like the manufacturer's site just discusses how to polish aluminum. So I am reviving this thread to try to get more info on polishing the grill and headlight trim. On my car, I have self-inflicted scratches just ahead of the hood on the horizontal surface of the stainless. I have done numerous searches and cannot find anything specific in regard to these cars in particular, only general "advice" about polishing stainless. I am scared of doing this wrong and making a bigger problem. Anyone have direct experience that can advise on technique and /or product(s)?

Jim in Seattle
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 05:20 PM
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I have a commercial Baldor buffing setup for all my aluminum and stainless work and the process is to buff (cut) then polish. It takes several passes with finer rouge bars until you achieve a mirror finish.
I am not suggesting you polish this with any machine, you can easily burn thru the top front edge of the grill.

Use finer and finer polishes and test on a scrap or remove one of the door sill plates. They are stainless like the headlamp surrounds.

1980 SWII LRL-41587C FInj
1976 SS LWB LRE-23114 Harkness RR
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019, 07:58 PM
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Nice, same color scheme as my parts car (maybe not parts car).
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 02:47 AM
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I will double up on wraithmans early comment as with stainless it is important to just polish in one direction only, the slightest swirl or cross directional rub will show up when viewed at various angles.


Work upwards from each lower corner of the grill towards the centre flying lady always in the same direction. Slightly more pressure can be applied in the worse areas. You will know if it is doing anything as the cloth should turn grey/black as an indication minute surface metal is being removed. With headlight surrounds these are easier done if removed and then polish across the top surface with a continuous sweep left to right and back again



I have removed even deep scratches from stainless initially with very very fine wet and dry then just standard mild chrome polishes by hand but always keeping in a linear rub formation.


All the best


Steve
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 08:28 AM
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Observe the headlamp frames attachment. They hang on top posts and secured with a screw in the center below the lamps. The "pegs" are adjustable. I have seen pegs coated with paint from re-sprays inhibiting the ability to hold the top edge of the frame.
There is also a thin rubber seal attached to the frame.

Note: there are "binders" used in metal polishes and if something is recommended for aluminum, do not use on stainless, etc. Some polishes will actually stain and the "grit" has to be matched to the metal.

Like Steve mentioned, stainless is very forgivable, it can be worked back into shape then sanded again and again, and polished to a luster.

1980 SWII LRL-41587C FInj
1976 SS LWB LRE-23114 Harkness RR
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-27-2019, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wraithman View Post
Happich polish or even a toothpaste with abrasive will work in one direction only with a clean microfiber cloth .
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wraithman View Post
Note: there are "binders" used in metal polishes and if something is recommended for aluminum, do not use on stainless, etc. Some polishes will actually stain and the "grit" has to be matched to the metal.
When looking at the manufacturer's page for Happich polish, https://www.simichrome-polish.com/ it refers mostly to using it on aluminum. (mid page) So I remain confused! I think this is one of those things so foreign to me that after I do it once it will be obvious, but starting cold its hard to make a move. these days it seems like you can go to YouTube and find something reasonable to get you started but I have yet to find this one there

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve E View Post
I have removed even deep scratches from stainless initially with very very fine wet and dry then just standard mild chrome polishes by hand but always keeping in a linear rub formation.
Steve

By "very very fine", would you say 2000? I do a lot of gelcoat restoration and polishing starting with as course as 600, then work to 2000, then go to the 3M multi-stage products. But this is not even close to gelcoat. I would have thought stainless was a harder surface than gelcoat but I have yet to put scratches in gelcoat with wax.


When I get this figured out and have success, I will make a video for the other clueless gents like me out there!

Jim in Seattle

Last edited by 77 Shadow; 11-27-2019 at 05:53 PM.
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