69 Silver Shadow brake applies on its own any help would be apreciated - Rolls-Royce and Bentley Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
New Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 3
69 Silver Shadow brake applies on its own any help would be apreciated

the car had no brakes at all, i read through the forums and took the cover off the brake fluid reservoir, the fluid had dot 3, there was a bunch of rubber debris in the reservoir. cleaned the reservoir and blew out where the filters go with shop air, then started the vehicle and followed the easy bleed procedure until i got no rubber debris coming out of the bleeders, found one brake hose was swollen shut to the left rear high pressure, replaced the hose. also had 3 calipers that the brake bleeders had broken off so i replaced both rear and front left leading caliper. bleed again then suck all dot 3 out of the reservoir and bleed with rr363. the car intermittently would lose the brake pedal did a little more inspection do the pump test on brake accumulators to find lights came on after 5 pumps. ordered and replaced both accumulators with aftermarket ones from flying spares. also noted i have replaced all parking brake pads. and brake pads. reassemble bleed all over again, test drive and the car stopped normally had no issues until you so slowly pushed in the brake pedal then the master cyl would bypass, i verified this by slowly holding it down and cracking out line of master and got no fluid. ordered a master from flying spares installed bled car ran but down the road both rear calipers applied and rotors started to get red so i stopped immediately, it seemed i played with the master cyl a little and then they released. this kept happening and when you drive the pedal would get hard as a rock after driving not when it just sat. after i drove it again after resetting the correct master cyl rod setting the pedal locked up got really hard i pumped the brakes and i am now back to no brake pedal or brakes any help would be appreciated i would like to use the car thank you to anyone who at least reads this i am desperite
JORDANCO888 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 05:26 PM
Senior Member
 
Bentleyman1993's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Bedford, VA. USA
Posts: 720
Garage
Welcome to the forum AND the wonderful world of RR/B ownership. If your brake system had DOT 3 fluid in it, that's very bad. ALL of your seals and soft brake lines must be replaced. To me it sounds like your rubber brake lines or caliper seals have swollen and will not release pressure when you let up on the pedal. DOT 3 and RR 363 are not compatible. I would look on the Aussie forum for flushing SY brake system and prepare for a complete rebuild. I know this is not what you want to hear, but you want to do this right.
Good Luck and keep us posted
Mark
Bentleyman1993 is offline  
post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
New Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 3
THANKS MARK, i just took out the master cyl and found i am not getting sufficent flow either on the bench. but i know this is not my full issue am going to order another one and replace all of the rubber lines thank you for the quick reply
JORDANCO888 is offline  
 
post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 06:21 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: FR
Posts: 1,885
Welcome Jordan,

I had a Shadow I. When I replaced the master cylinder with a friend mechanic, he adjusted a screw in this area.
Going back, I had a kind of your beak problem.
He went under the car and adjusted something in order I could go back to his garage. We went back to his garage to finalise adjustement perfectly

I don't remeber where is that screw, but you will find it. It should be with the master, the brake distributors, under the car on left side, under a metal protection.

If you rotor and pad went red, you might have to replace rotor, pads and above all Castrol RR 363

Study this remakable web site, the solution should be there
Maybe operating rod adjustement...just don't remember, 12 years ago or more

http://www.rrsilvershadow.com/ETechn/Hydr/Compmstr.htm

Up to you to study

Jean

97 Continental R
Jean7 is offline  
post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 07:22 PM
Senior Member
 
jeyjey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ireland
Posts: 570
Garage
I've seen cases where deterioration of the insides of the hoses will allow fluid into the callipers but not back out. As long as you've done all the work you already have, I think I'd replace all the hoses.

Cheers,
Jeff.
jeyjey is offline  
post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 07:50 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Wexford, Ireland
Posts: 1,717
Hi Jordan, There are also 2 restrictor valves which have very small orifices for brake fluid to pass through, both of these restrictor valves are screwed to the rear cross member and they are both on the No.2 brake/suspension system. If any crud was floating around in the No.2 hydraulic system these valves are likely to become clogged (especially the low pressure return restrictor) and could cause the symptoms you describe as the return flow of fluid to the reservoir could be blocked causing brake pressure to build up. One indication that this could be happening is a knocking sound (like bad household plumbing noise) when the suspension is activated or the brakes are applied. Removing and cleaning these restrictor valves is a relatively easy task but you will need to replace the o-ring seal on each before reassembly. I would recommend that you replace all flexi hoses and blow compressed air through all the steel brake pipes when the flexi hoses are removed in an effort to remove any crud that could be lodged there. I would be inclined also, to remove the pistons from all the brake callipers, clean the piston bores and replace the seals and - if necessary - the pistons also. Make sure the callipers are clean and that the pads are free to move in and out, I usually use copper grease on the steel part of the pads that makes contact with the callipers. It sounds like this car has been sitting idle or neglected for a long time and this usually attracts hydraulic issues. Once you have solved the problem/s drive it regularly to keep the hydraulic components moving freely, ask me how I know. If you google "Silver Shadow bleeding your brakes the easy way" you will undoubtedly find the information therein very helpful. Good luck and happy motoring, Larry
shadow 11 is offline  
post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 08:46 PM
Senior Member
 
guyslp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Staunton, VA - USA
Posts: 3,448
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bentleyman1993 View Post
Welcome to the forum AND the wonderful world of RR/B ownership. If your brake system had DOT 3 fluid in it, that's very bad. ALL of your seals and soft brake lines must be replaced. To me it sounds like your rubber brake lines or caliper seals have swollen and will not release pressure when you let up on the pedal. DOT 3 and RR 363 are not compatible. I would look on the Aussie forum for flushing SY brake system and prepare for a complete rebuild. I know this is not what you want to hear, but you want to do this right.
Good Luck and keep us posted
Mark
It is critical to make the point that this information is INCORRECT. RR363 is a DOT3 brake fluid with lubricating additives (ethoxylated, propoxylated castor oil) for the pumps.

Many of us, myself included, use YAK363, which is 90% DOT 3 (some use DOT 4) brake fluid and 10% pharmaceutical grade castor oil.

RR363 is a DOT 3 fluid and is marked as such on the bottle. There is absolutely no incompatibility and, in fact, the owner's manual states that if you are in a pinch and need to refill the system to get to your destination you may use DOT 3 fluid and replace it with RR363 as soon as possible.

[LHM and DOT3 brake fluid are not compatible with each other and many an SY and SZ car have been badly messed up when the wrong fluid is put in for the car. (More SZs get screwed up by people adding DOT3 to an LHM system than vice versa.)]

Brian

The opposite of a correct statement is a false statement. But the opposite of a profound truth may well be another profound truth.
~ Niels Bohr


guyslp is offline  
post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 08:59 PM
Senior Member
 
guyslp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Staunton, VA - USA
Posts: 3,448
See the attached photo of the latest version of the RR363 bottle.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg New_RR363_Bottle_Annotated.jpg (107.5 KB, 9 views)

Brian

The opposite of a correct statement is a false statement. But the opposite of a profound truth may well be another profound truth.
~ Niels Bohr


guyslp is offline  
post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 09:23 PM
Senior Member
 
guyslp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Staunton, VA - USA
Posts: 3,448
Also, if you do plan on replacing all the hoses, then download the RR & Bentley Parts, Repair, Restoration & Other Resources Compilation and search for "Hydraulic Hose Substitution Chart."

If you plan on keeping the car for an extended period you might want to consider having a set of PTFE carrier hoses made up for the car. While it's somewhat more expensive it will save you having to do this job again.

Brian

The opposite of a correct statement is a false statement. But the opposite of a profound truth may well be another profound truth.
~ Niels Bohr


guyslp is offline  
post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-23-2016, 06:55 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: FR
Posts: 1,885
Sure, hoses are a strong possibility too as pressure is blocked and cannot go back when you release pedal.

If they are too old or even original, you should replace all, brake and suspension.

Jean

97 Continental R
Jean7 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Rolls-Royce and Bentley Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 

Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.

SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1