Suspension levelling issue when parked - Rolls-Royce and Bentley Forums
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 04:51 AM Thread Starter
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Suspension levelling issue when parked

I have noticed recently when my car in parked for 10 or 15 minutes that the back left side will sink down,it will drop down so much that the shock is down all the way,as soon as I start it comes up as it should & works as it should.I got new air springs fitted 10 months ago (10,000 miles on them) I have noticed damp sign of mineral oil around the pipe work near the air sprins unit but no sign of a leak,all the pipes are tight it has not used any mineral oil in a year. When I start it in the morning the two lights go out in 10/15 seconds.
I am told that when driving behind the car that it looks to be a little lower down on the left side,but drives & levels ok
I have a large LPG tank in the boot or trunk (25 gallons) it is in the centre of it so it is balanced well,I only keep a1/4 tank or less petrol in it.
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 07:31 AM
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hi Kevin
sounds to me like the coil spring has gone on holiday leaving the ram to do all the work no wonder it's leaking!
Must be a broken spring or support as the car should sit level without any intervention of oil or gas pressure.
Best wishes
Mike
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 09:23 AM
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hi Kevin
sounds to me like the coil spring has gone on holiday leaving the ram to do all the work no wonder it's leaking!
Must be a broken spring or support as the car should sit level without any intervention of oil or gas pressure.
Best wishes
Mike
Mike, this is one time I'll have to disagree with your assessment. The SZ cars do rely on the gas springs as an integral part of their "regular" suspension and the height control needs to be working correctly to maintain correct standing and ride height. It is not unusual to see what Kevin describes as happening occurring very slowly, and symmetrically, when an SZ car is parked for extended periods of time. The coil spring itself is not enough to keep a perfect standing height on its own, unlike the system on the SY cars. You also have the characteristic in the SZs of them riding low and "like an ox cart" if the gas springs have lost their nitrogen charge.

All of the above being said, Kevin, what you're seeing is atypical. I would suspect the height control valve on the affected side is not working properly and is not closing like it should when correct height is achieved. It not likely "full open" either or the car might have difficulty getting correct height, but I know the system is more than capable of producing enough fluid pressure on a constant basis to overcome a slow leak.

The height control valves on the SZ cars were supposed to be "throw away" items and replaced as a unit if they go bad. I believe there are a number of shops that will rebuild them, though, but you'd have to research that yourself.

Brian

The opposite of a correct statement is a false statement. But the opposite of a profound truth may well be another profound truth.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 12:10 PM
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The rear height on your car is control by minimum pressure valve, 2 on early cars with height control valves either side, 1 on later cars with 1 HCV They are located on floor upright just in front of rear sub frame. They are adjustable to set height. If you have access to gauge fit it in rear suspension bleed point. Run car to get all up to pressure & rear height how it should stand. Then switch off engine. Then crack off internal bleed screw on front accumulator whilst watch gauge pressure drop. The gauge pressure should stop dropping at between 350-300 , if not then problem with minimum pressure valve. From memory they are quite easy to strip & clean which may help otherwise will need replacing.
Workshop manual section G-14 shows it all in detail.
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 12:41 PM
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Hi Brian
I'm sure your right, but the way it was described as sitting on the bump stop ,I didn't think the gas lifted it so far.
Let us know what you find Kevin
Cheers
Mike
ps Brian I pm'd you on bellows wondered if you got it ok?
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Again I thank you for your help Mike & Brian I will fix it & let you know what it was.i have a different question for you,as much as I love my eight i fave been offered a turbo R with a genuine 30,000 miles on it, it was owned by a very,very.very famous UK music star,it has one other owner and a full history,it is a 89 model,I shold be able to get it for 7000£ with my car. What are they like & should I do it,I do 300 to 500 miles a week in my eight it has 115000 on my eight now?
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 09:37 PM
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ps Brian I pm'd you on bellows wondered if you got it ok?
Yes, and thank you. This past week has been absolute chaos and a response fell through the cracks.

Brian

The opposite of a correct statement is a false statement. But the opposite of a profound truth may well be another profound truth.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 09:48 PM
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. . it is a 89 model,I shold be able to get it for 7000£ with my car. What are they like & should I do it,I do 300 to 500 miles a week in my eight it has 115000 on my eight now?
My feeling, and that's all it is, is, "Don't do it."

I purchased a 1979 Silver Wraith II with less than 27K on it in 2012 and am still working to get it roadworthy. Think about it, a 1989 car with 30K miles on it has moved less than 1200 miles per year. That puts it in the same category as my SW-II: barely rolling sculpture. This is never good for any mechanical device. Most of these cars do not die from wearing out but from the direct results of lack of use. In a more complex car equipped with a turbocharger I'd be quite hesitant. Low mileage like this is, in my eyes, a detriment, not an asset.

However, if you know that you're likely getting yourself into a "revival from the dead" situation, and can accept that you're not going to have a reliable driver until you've owned it for a while and worked out the kinks, you could certainly move forward.

A Bentley Eight with 115K on the clock is a mere babe in the woods. I'd stick with the "devil that know" rather than going for the one you don't.

If you decide you want to purchase the car be certain to spend the money for a comprehensive pre-purchase inspection by a mechanic intimately familiar with this particular model. It is money very well spent if for no other reason than assembling a "to do" list.

Brian

The opposite of a correct statement is a false statement. But the opposite of a profound truth may well be another profound truth.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-09-2015, 04:11 AM
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Hi Kevin
I would go for it (sorry Brian lol) , the Turbo r is more economical to run than an unturbo charged , they are more desirable and easier to sell and with that low milage it should be like a new car.
I wouldn't care too much who had owned it thats just a bit of fluff lol
The '89 is (in my opinion) the best year as you don't have the very expensive active ride and other expensive electronics.
Min was standing for 5 years and very little used for the 5 before that , all seems ok so far (touch wood)
But I agree with Brian have it thouroughly checked out!! and valued!
Best wishes
Mike
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-09-2015, 04:18 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your thoughts,you make a lot of good points,I have my eight almost finished exept for a few small issues,it has cost me 7/8000€ to get it here & with the 2.28 diff fitted it drives like a dream @ 50 mph on the clock it is doing 65 mph,it is quieter smoother,less wear,easier on fuel and it is a nice car to drive daily.
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