In my opinion, this is one of the hardest jobs on a non-Turbo SZ. Turbos have splined shafts, we others have this Woodruff-key misdesign! Read on and you'll understand. Brian already mentioned the press.
First, you'll need to take the rear driveshafts out (you can interchange left and right but don't change the direction of rotation, as this may put metal fatigue onto the Lobro-joints.)
Then, you need an 1inch11/16th tool to undo the nut which you discover once the driveshafts are out of the way, and which holds the rear hubs together. You need a long leverage, because that monster nut is tightened with near 800Nm. That means, you'll need such a torque wrench to tighten the nut again. Car garages don't have those. Try to borrow one from a truck or bus repairshop. The park brake will not be powerful to keep the wheel from spinning. Yes, wheel and tire should still be attached at this point. Only now you can remove them.
After that, the brake calliper assembly must be unbolted and removed.
Now you can undo the 10 (are there 10 of those, can't remember) bolts which you see once the wheel is off. This is the male part of the hub. The 800Nm nut holds it onto/into the female part. Unbolt the hub and remove it from the car (heavy).
So now you think the hub splits in 2 by itself? NONO. The male part has a taper, and that's where the press, which Brian mentioned, comes into play.
Sometimes 20t is not enough I read, although my hubs always split out OK. Leave leave that big nut screwed-in a hallways to avoid that the male part shoots on the floor. I'm always scared at the BANG this makes. Replace the little woodruff key that falls out. The big nut should be replaced as well, RR says.
The bearing replacement is straightforward. Bang out the races, put the new ones in the freezer the night before, then grind down the old races so that you can use them as a tool to hammer in the new ones.
Important: bearing free float adjustment: this is done by tightening an aluminium nut. Measure the free float by re-attaching the tire temporarily. This gives you more leverage. I had to do the whole thing again because I simply wiggled on the brake disk while adjusting the free float with that nut, and once the tire was on, I discovered that the play was way outside the tolerance.
Google ''Tee-One Topics'', you'll find good instructions.
Woodruff-key style hubs are exchangeable for splined Turbo hubs. Buy those!
Last edited by JP_Corniche; 08-06-2015 at 01:19 PM.