NEXT new problem: Loose Rear Wheel Bearing - Rolls-Royce and Bentley Forums
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-05-2015, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
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NEXT new problem: Loose Rear Wheel Bearing

I have what appears to be a loose left rear wheel bearing. I can hold the left rear tire and when I shake it, it feels just like what a loose front wheel bearing does. Makes noise when I slow down into a right hand turn. Is this able to be adjusted/replaced by me, or do I need to Mortgage the property and send the car to Robison?...
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-06-2015, 12:04 PM
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Location: Staunton, VA - USA
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There are quite a few threads regarding wheel bearing issues and changing both front and rear wheel bearings on the RROC-Australia Discussion Forums. You can use their "Search" feature to find them but be sure to change the "Or" setting to "And" and the "parts of words" setting to "whole words only" before you hit the "Perform search" button.

This job can be done DIY but virtually always requires the assistance of someone with a big press to press out the old bearings and press in the new ones.

Make certain this is your problem before going the replacement route.

If your lucky enough to be close to John Robison's shop at least you can get opinion about whether the problem is what you think it is before either having the work done or undertaking it as a DIY project.


The opposite of a correct statement is a false statement. But the opposite of a profound truth may well be another profound truth.
~ Niels Bohr

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-06-2015, 01:14 PM
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In my opinion, this is one of the hardest jobs on a non-Turbo SZ. Turbos have splined shafts, we others have this Woodruff-key misdesign! Read on and you'll understand. Brian already mentioned the press.
First, you'll need to take the rear driveshafts out (you can interchange left and right but don't change the direction of rotation, as this may put metal fatigue onto the Lobro-joints.)
Then, you need an 1inch11/16th tool to undo the nut which you discover once the driveshafts are out of the way, and which holds the rear hubs together. You need a long leverage, because that monster nut is tightened with near 800Nm. That means, you'll need such a torque wrench to tighten the nut again. Car garages don't have those. Try to borrow one from a truck or bus repairshop. The park brake will not be powerful to keep the wheel from spinning. Yes, wheel and tire should still be attached at this point. Only now you can remove them.
After that, the brake calliper assembly must be unbolted and removed.
Now you can undo the 10 (are there 10 of those, can't remember) bolts which you see once the wheel is off. This is the male part of the hub. The 800Nm nut holds it onto/into the female part. Unbolt the hub and remove it from the car (heavy).
So now you think the hub splits in 2 by itself? NONO. The male part has a taper, and that's where the press, which Brian mentioned, comes into play.
Sometimes 20t is not enough I read, although my hubs always split out OK. Leave leave that big nut screwed-in a hallways to avoid that the male part shoots on the floor. I'm always scared at the BANG this makes. Replace the little woodruff key that falls out. The big nut should be replaced as well, RR says.
The bearing replacement is straightforward. Bang out the races, put the new ones in the freezer the night before, then grind down the old races so that you can use them as a tool to hammer in the new ones.
Important: bearing free float adjustment: this is done by tightening an aluminium nut. Measure the free float by re-attaching the tire temporarily. This gives you more leverage. I had to do the whole thing again because I simply wiggled on the brake disk while adjusting the free float with that nut, and once the tire was on, I discovered that the play was way outside the tolerance.
Google ''Tee-One Topics'', you'll find good instructions.
Woodruff-key style hubs are exchangeable for splined Turbo hubs. Buy those!

Last edited by JP_Corniche; 08-06-2015 at 01:19 PM.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-06-2015, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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All I need to do is to tighten the bearing(s). Do I need to disassemble the entire hub?
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
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Races(2)/bearings(2) on the way, shaft being pressed out as we speak. SO glad I just bought a new impact gun.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-28-2015, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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It turns out that the new bearings and races weren't necessary. The set in by hub just needed to be repacked and tightened to spec. As an aside, I learned about a few thing relating to "replacement" parts for the hub. First, the aluminum adjusting nut used to adjust the bearings does NOT need to be replaced. Careful removal is all that's required...the stakeing is easily opened up, and the nut is 100% re-useable. The large 1 11/16" nut securing the axle to the hub is also quite re-useable. Neither the threads on the stub axle OR the nut were not at all deformed and the nut can be used again. I took the entire hub assembly to my local Fleet Pride Store, and they removed the nut, and pressed out the axle. They assured me that the threads of the nut were not deformed an any way, and it was entirely re-useable. While I was at it, I had a clean up cut done on the rotor. Most the parts of the hub went into my glass bead cabinet, then were metal etch primed/painted before re-assembly. After I re-packed and adjusted the bearings, the hub went back to Fleet Pride to have the axle nut torqued down. Total cost $16 for the rotor clean up, $35 to have the hub split/re-torqued, $15 brake pads (actually $7.50 for just the one side). Had I needed to replace both bearings and both races, that would have been another $50...+/-. I have a used set of left and right hubs which I'm going to rebuild and sell. The right side hub is done...the left is next. $350 plus Shipping (40 + lbs) for the one which is done.
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