Check your fuel lines!! - Rolls-Royce and Bentley Forums
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-13-2014, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Check your fuel lines!!

Just had a lucky escape on my '87 Turbo R, smelled petrol as I got out of the car at home, a quick check under the car revealed a stream of fuel from one of the fuel lines under the floor, fortunately the flow stopped when I switched off.
The steel fuel line from the rear of the car to the fuel filter had rotted through near one of the securing clips.
When the line was removed it was paper thin in several places, fortunately I had some 8mm kunifer pipe which I'd used several years ago when I had a similar failure on a Range Rover.
A short length of the line which passes through the rear body frame was also rotten, in fact it snapped as I was undoing the screwed union, so this had to be replaced also. As it was not possible to remove this line which passes over the diff it was cut and joined with a suitable piece of fuel hose.
I'm back to work again tomorrow so won't be able to do anything more for the next 6 weeks when I'll replace the rest of the lines with kunifer, can't really do anything with the 2 lines over the diff, I'm guessing the rear subframe would have to be dropped or maybe the diff? but these look in good condition being more protected up there.
ATB
Graham
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-13-2014, 05:48 PM
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Rusty fuel lines

Hi Graham, this is a very commonly seen fault on these cars. It is a good job you caught it in time. I recently had some work done at a RR specialist and he pointed out to me that my fuel pipes were badly corroded. He said that he sees this problem regularly, especially where the pipe bends upwards near the rear wheel. He told me that the pipes are vulnerable, being so open to the elements. I take it you will be replacing the fuel filter at the same time?
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-13-2014, 06:42 PM
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Not to hijack this thread, but to add to it.

First, bravo to Graham for bringing up the idea of using cunifer line to replace the existing mild steel line! This is now pretty much "the standard" for replacing hard brake lines and is vastly superior to steel since it does not corrode and is far easier to bend as needed. There is no reason that it should not be the replacement material of choice for hard fuel lines as well.

As to a filter replacement, what are people using these days? I don't know when, or if, the filter style was changed from the under car "filter in a can" style. I have been unable to find replacement filters to fit the main fuel filter in SY cars, which I believe carried over to the SZs for at least part of the run, other than at obscene prices for NOS.

Brian

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-14-2014, 04:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guyslp
Not to hijack this thread, but to add to it.

As to a filter replacement, what are people using these days? I don't know from the under car "filter in a can" style. which I believe carried over to the SZs for at least part of the run, other than at obscene prices for NOS.

Well, for the 20,000 series SZ cars, the under-car canister filter is the Bosch # 0 450 905 601 Available for about $16 US:
http://catalog.importrp.com/searchit...FW0V7Aodny8A5w



That cross references to many other brands such as Fram G-3744, as listed on the Rolls Substitute Parts webpage:

http://mutley.hypermart.net/RollsSubstituteParts.html
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-14-2014, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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Yes the filter is on my to do list as it doesn't look as if it's been replaced for some time, looks to be the Bosch one shown so shouldn't be too hard to source, I usually use Halfords for my filters as I get a really good discount with my trade card.
I'll replace the filter with the lines to the engine after the filter, didn't want to disturb anything else for now so at least the car is driveable while I'm away.
Working in the marine sector corrosion is something I'm always fighting with hence my choice of kunifer, also it's easy to shape and the connections can be silver soldered and the ends flared to suit the fittings.
I'm considering replacing the lines over the diff with braided ptfe hose which could be simply threaded through and clipped in place.
Regards
Graham
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-14-2014, 06:23 PM
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Oh how I wish this thread had been about some 12 months ago, beware of the fuel filter nuts, went to change the fuel filter as part of the service hey presto both ends seized on and wrung out the pipe, deep joy, ended up buying the complete line from the pump right to the injector assy, what a pig of ajob getting the line up from the fuel filter in to engine compartment.
I assumed it was steel because of the high pressure, but inspecing what I would call the return piping it is connected up at a couple of places with standad fuel pipe and jubilee clips.
Can I take it that this is low pressure? and I could use the kunifer pipe, do you know what diameter the pipe is by any chance?

best wishes

john
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-16-2014, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by motorman
Oh how I wish this thread had been about some 12 months ago..........
john
The same here, mind you my lines started leaking when I had it on the axle stands eliminating the exhaust leaks, it was only by chance that I rubbed the fuel line along the lower side to the rear wheel that the line started to get wet. However that is not the the reason for this thread to have been started 12 months ago, its is the fact that I bought a new fuel filter about 6 months ago for my '90 Turbo R and seeing the photo here showing the fuel filter for the 20,000 series I'm guessing my new fuel filter will be wrong for the 30,000 series
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-16-2014, 09:55 AM
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As always, your best bet when trying to fit parts to these cars is to have a look at the spare parts manual, which is available up through the 20K series cars in the SZ section of the RROC-Australia Post-War Technical Library.

Depending on where in the 20K series your car falls, and its original delivery market, it could have one of several different fuel filters. It looks like the part for the 20K Turbo R and the 30K Turbo R are very similar, if not the same. Crewe had this penchant for both creating its own part number system for parts sourced from other manufacturers (e.g., Bosch) and for changing the part number for the same part when major "production breaks" occurred (e.g., going from the 20K to 30K series SZ cars).

This is one of the reasons I, and many others, harp on the fact that it's very hard to advise someone about many parts unless we have the SZ Chassis Number Derivation from VIN from the outset.

Brian

The opposite of a correct statement is a false statement. But the opposite of a profound truth may well be another profound truth.
~ Niels Bohr


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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-16-2014, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Hi John, reference the kunifer and being suitable pressure wise I don't recall the spec for the piping I bought as it was about 15 years ago but I know it was far in excess of the fuel system pressure so no worries using it for both the supply and return lines, the size was 8mm for both.
Hope this helps.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-17-2014, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guyslp
As always, your best bet when trying to fit parts to these cars is to have a look at the spare parts manual, which is available up through the 20K series cars in the SZ section of the RROC-Australia Post-War Technical Library.

Depending on where in the 20K series your car falls, and its original delivery market, it could have one of several different fuel filters. It looks like the part for the 20K Turbo R and the 30K Turbo R are very similar, if not the same. Crewe had this penchant for both creating its own part number system for parts sourced from other manufacturers (e.g., Bosch) and for changing the part number for the same part when major "production breaks" occurred (e.g., going from the 20K to 30K series SZ cars).

This is one of the reasons I, and many others, harp on the fact that it's very hard to advise someone about many parts unless we have the SZ Chassis Number Derivation from VIN from the outset.
Thanks Brian, all may not be lost I will also look at the old filter on the car as this too will help with identification.
I guess with this forum and its source of useful information, people like me get lazy in regards to checking the old part out first Much easier to ask on the forum first
Now where did I put my pipe and slippers..........
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