Front wheel arches - Rolls-Royce and Bentley Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-13-2013, 03:51 AM Thread Starter
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Front wheel arches

Been in bodywork mode this week while the sun was shining sorting out a front wheel arch. Started out with a blister which had been annoying me since I first got the car so decided to attack it, naturally it became a hole which went round into the lip so made a repair patch to weld in, bit fiddly getting the curves right but got there in the end, weld blow torch hammer weld until it fitted and then lead load to tidy it up. When I had the mud shields out I found a strip of foam around the edge that sits in the wing lip which I guess held the moisture which caused the rust to come through from behind. The bottom edge of the shield was damaged as well which had allowed mud to build up in the bottom of the wing where it meets the sill so more holes there as well. Got another blister to attend to at the front of the wheel arch which I expect to be another hole to patch and a bit of scabby lip to cut out and replace.
Plan is to coat the inner surfaces behind the mud shields using POR15 rust paint followed by a coat of stone chip, I've removed the foam from around the edge of the mud shields and the plan is to seal them in place with sealastick and then give the whole area a coat of stone chip.
Does this sound like a good plan? any suggestions for a better scheme always welcome.
Graham
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-13-2013, 09:22 AM
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that's almost exactly what I'd recommend. Indeed, I've done that recently on mine (plus a little bit).

Modern PU adhesive is able to bond the arch liner in a way that wasn't technically possible when the car was made.

The only difference I'd suggest is Bondaprimer for the initial painting.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-13-2013, 12:34 PM
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I have had all the plastics out and stem cleaned all the underside of the car
and the arch's
I then sprayed them with anti rust and stone chipped over that
I have got from RS the foam sealing strip to replace the old stuff
i think sealing them in will only start problems when you want to get back in
and also if you use good self tapers and spray the Hole with Grease then they can be removed for cleaning

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-14-2013, 01:20 AM
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Yip

That stuffs pretty brittle
Been chewing over what to do, dont want to seal in as this may trap water, but also think this plastic was there to also stop the splash guards from rubbing on the inner wing metal and corrosion, me thinks I will when re installing go for the silicon, shove loads of silicon along the seam and refit the splash guards, that way if it needs to come out can be peeled out etc.
Been diverted by other things ( work is the curse of the classic car restorer) but should be back at the car hopefully this weekend, only a lttle bit of cill to finiish and then some TLC to front nearside wing, a quick walk round to check and hey presto ready for paint shop, only eight months work on and off, a real learning curve never seen a vehicle with so may nuts and bolts and sadly given that it is hand built so much corrosion due to simple lack of attention to rust prevention at manufacture

ho hum
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-14-2013, 06:43 AM
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That POR 15 is only good on red raw rusty parts - it does not adhere to clean , good metal well at all - I have blown it off in sheets with an air line. Some tests done by magazines showed weird properties. I would leave it alone. Use chassis black. Also PU adhesives are great but are effected by UV light - thats why bonded screens have black round the outside. Waxoyl blasted into cavities is good, also Gibbs (which I believe is auto transmission fluid and alchohol) is supposed to be good. Toolstation do a Flag water based rust converter which is very good (2 coats, dries quick).
Another tip is if you do any welding repair and have to skim with filler, use chemical metal for the first coat (water proof and has rust proofer in) then skim with normal body filler. You won't get anything coming through the micro perferations left by mig welding. Hope this helps.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-14-2013, 07:05 AM
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Hi this is what i am using




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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-14-2013, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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I lead loaded my weld repairs so don't envisage any further problems there, is that foam on a roll or mastic on a roll as per dinitrol?
When you had the problems with POPR15 Generallee did you do the marine clean first followed by the metal prep prepaint before the POR15, I've not used it before but it sounds very good and I've not heard of any problems with it elsewhere.
Had a rethink for the areas behind the mudshields as it looks like some wax had been sprayed in there previously so I've coated the new steel patches with POR15 then I'll use Dinitrol cavity wax in the void.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-14-2013, 04:33 PM
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foam
as the panels have been treated and this is just a filler it should be OK

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-15-2013, 03:49 AM
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Hi, yes. Very disappointed with it. I have a car roller and stripped the floors and chassis of my Charger. Did them with POR 15 black, then put on the ground and fitted engine and box etc. A year later the stuff was flaking off and any where that was good clean metal just came off in big sheets - spent a week on my back sanding the rest off. Supplier not interested at all. Good stuff for rusty pieces like suspension wishbone etc. Chassis black has been on 7 years now and is fine. There was a test done by a classic car mag that showed it up. I don't rate Rust Bullet either although my mate who restores classics does. Put rust bullet on the tailpipe of my motorhome as a test and within 12 months it was rusty again
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-15-2013, 07:20 PM
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Hold on to your hats for this one.
Found a u tube vid, basically the car was bare metal being prepped for respay.
The body shop guy wiped the bare metal with a diluted one to four mixture of vinegar and water, the results were remarkable, at a glance you tink the bare metal is rust free but once the diluted vinegar has gone to work you see parts of the metal turning black, thats the hidden rust!
All he then did was to wipe of with water soaked cloth amazing

Just found the link

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m8_STIIF_x0

enjoy
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