Replace rear brake discs Silver Shadow 1 - Rolls-Royce and Bentley Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-08-2016, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Replace rear brake discs Silver Shadow 1

Hello Forum members,

we wanted to replace the rear brake disks and the brake padsof my Silver Shadow 1 but the first attempt failed. We removed the wheels, triedto get the hollow stub axle out and there we failed. It seemed that the axle issomewhere fixed and we have not beenable to pull it out. Has anyone of you alredy done the exchange of the rearbrake discs and brake pads and has useful information for me or a link to a webpage where we find information to solve our problem? Itīs the first time for methat I use the forum and itīs my first Silver Shadow. It would be great toreceive your replies.




kind regards
Norbert
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-09-2016, 04:45 AM
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Search under rear rotors in this forum. Seems like a job that requires special tools. Independent dealers have quoted me 8 hours @ Ģ80ph + VAT @20 % for labour only to do both sides.Phew
I may consider mobile machining at some point. What is minimum thickness stamped on edge of new disc? Anyone know?
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-09-2016, 10:58 AM
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You can hire the tools from Flying Spares.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-09-2016, 05:36 PM
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First of all, download a copy of the factory service manuals from the RROC Australia site:
http://rrtechnical.info/sy/04_sy
Now to answer your question, the 1 11/16" nuts on the inside of the rear hubs are tightened with up to 525 ft./lbs of torque. It might be easiest to break these nuts loose with the wheels still on the ground.
I've made a couple to tools to make the job easier. These tools assume that the hubs have been removed from the car rather than trying to wrangle them in situ.
The hub holder that is pictured clamped in my bench vise is there for demonstration purposes only (also, the parts are just mocked-up, the nut is not tight and the yoke is not fully in place). The bench in my garage is large, but it is not large enough to break a nut loose that has has been tightened to 525 ft./lbs. When I did it, I used a very large steel bench that was bolted to the ground.
The nuts cannot be reused. Make sure you have new nuts on hand before starting. They are part #RH2453 and are about $60.00 ea. Once the nuts are removed, a puller designed for the purpose can be used to pull the yokes. From there, everything else is pretty straight forward, but read the manual.
If the disc are not too bad, consider having them trued with an on-the-car brake lathe. New disc thickness is .500. I wouldn't take it under .480. I couldn't find the exact minimum thickness - I'm sure somebody has it.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 01:56 PM
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We have a 20 ton hydraulic puller for removing the yokes, they can be extremely tight. That's a very elegant puller Kelly, nicely made. IIRC the rear minimum is 12mm or .475 inches.
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SRC18015 SRE22493 NAC-05370
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-11-2016, 02:41 PM
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This is the way i pull out the joke, simple tool setup, but working good.

BTW, why is the nut not reusable? Qutoe:"The nuts cannot be reused. Make sure you have new nuts on hand before starting. "
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75 Silver Shadow LRD21XXX
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 01:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by covenant View Post
BTW, why is the nut not reusable? Quote:"The nuts cannot be reused. Make sure you have new nuts on hand before starting. "
I was prepared to quote chapter and verse of the company service manual and possibly even include a screen shot, but much to my chagrin, I cannot find this mentioned in the manuals. I know I have read it in an official document somewhere but I am at a loss as to where.
Bill Coburn's very excellent Tee-One Topics #63 shows how to rebuild the hub and he states of the nut: "It is tightened to a torque figure of 550 ft-lb which is so tight it conceivably distorts the threads militating against its re-use. The removed nut looks OK but the Factory directs that it not be re-used".
http://rrtechnical.info/TeeOne/TO63.pdf


Elsewhere in my search, I found a similar quote from Howard Krimko on the US RROC forums where, speaking of the nut, he states: "There are single use nuts that have to be torqued to around 500 lb.ft.".
http://rroc.hoop.la/topic/72-silver-...87914262269479


Hopefully, somebody can put me out of my misery and direct me to the official source of this information.




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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelly Opfar View Post

Hopefully, somebody can put me out of my misery and direct me to the official source of this information.
Kelly,

Unless this is in a technical service bulletin, the only reference I can find is the end of Chapter J in the section "Hub Unit - to fit" where step one states, "Position the hub on the stub axle and fit the hardened key washer and a new shrouded nut." (added emphasis on new is mine).

This is one of those situations where I would be willing to believe that Crewe was indulging in an excess of caution, but someone who is in the fasteners business and/or a metallurgist should be consulted to confirm this. Bill Coburn's statement, "it conceivably distorts the threads," is a conjecture, and everything else I already know about threaded fasteners indicates if something is tightened beyond its elastic limits the threads on not only the fastener, but the thing it threads on to, should both be distorted such that they should not be reused for fear of stress-induced failure. If they have not been, and one has to presume that a correctly tightened fastener has not been tightened past its threads and the the thing-it-threads-on-to's threads elastic limits both should be fine for reuse.

So, I've now found the single word reference to "new" sans any dire warnings (that I can find, anyway) in the official documentation and my thinking aloud about why and how one might go about questioning it in a manner that, with sufficient care and research, should yield an answer regarding whether this "new" is essential or a matter of exercising extra caution.

P.S. Posting direct links to the RROC-US forums here is often an exercise in frustration for this forum's members unless they also happen to be members of the RROC-US and able to log in to the RROC-US forums (or are already logged in) when the link is clicked.

Brian

The opposite of a correct statement is a false statement. But the opposite of a profound truth may well be another profound truth.
~ Niels Bohr



Last edited by guyslp; 01-12-2016 at 01:03 PM.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 01:21 PM
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And here is a document from Fastenal, Technical Reference Guide s7208 (2005), that just taught me something I hadn't known, or recalled, regarding why the reuse of a nut is not a good idea even if everything has always been at the correct installation torque/tension: nuts are designed to be slightly softer than bolts so that they deform a bit more by intent. Thus, if you were to reuse them, you're not starting with the same nut you had when new. See the section entitled, The Reuse of Fasteners, starting on document page 27/PDF page 29.

The scales are tipping more strongly to new, not because you cannot reuse, but because you cannot be certain what your torque tightening figure will need to be were you to reuse the nut in question.

Brian

The opposite of a correct statement is a false statement. But the opposite of a profound truth may well be another profound truth.
~ Niels Bohr


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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 01:47 PM
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I recalled that when I removed the nut from the spindle, nut is still good in thread, I reinstalled the nut to the spindle with hand, screwed in with ease, it seemed that the nut is still good for reuse.

I reuse the nut anyway, at the risk of my own.

75 Silver Shadow LRD21XXX
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