Fuel coming from weakener air filter?..... - Rolls-Royce and Bentley Forums
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post #1 of 92 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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Fuel coming from weakener air filter?.....

Help needed please RR silver shadow 1977 mk2 sy31709

After a long cold UK winter it's finally spring and I've been rousing the duchess and getting her ready for a busy summers use .However upon staring the old girl I had her warming up and she suddenly stalled with a few burps and lumpy idle b4 stalling . I had noticed a petrol smell shortly after and looked underneath and had drips of fuel from the pipe to the left rear bell housing which I believe is the overflow from the weakener ? I didn't have time to investigate that same day (had to leave for work) so the following weekend I restarted the car to investigate it further she ran with lots of smoke and lumpy throttling and was obviously not firing on all cylinders and or over rich however I had fuel coming from the weakener air filter housing this time !?...
Now I was suspecting a stuck or sticking float or needle in 1 or both of the carbs but I'm at a loss as to why the fuel is now coming from a different area of the weakener system !,,,Help please from a new owner ,,,, Chris from essex UK
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Silver shadow 1977 sy31709 old English white

Silver shadow MKII 1977 SRH31709
old English white
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post #2 of 92 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 11:56 AM
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Hi Chris

I would agree with your diagnosis of a sticking float chamber. When you turn on the ignition, but do not start the engine, do you get a continuous clicking of the fuel pump? The clicking should stop after 5 or 6 clicks.

I would also check for any blockages in the connecting hoses and the weakener filter etc. Since you are a new owner, it could be that the hoses are incorrectly connected.

Finally, have you downloaded a copy of the workshop manual. It can be found here:

http://rrtechnical.info/

Geoff.
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post #3 of 92 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Geoff

Thanks you for reply.I have not had time to uncover the car and perform any further checks as work commitments this week prevent me but I will take a look on fri this week .she was running very well before winter and the journey home in november when purchased was wonderfully calm and uneventful .I have been able to start her through the winter snow but she hadn't been driven anywhere so I was a little surprised to find the fuel leaks described .however I'm not surprised to find that the car has developed a sticky float during the short layoff I've not really noticed that ticking you mentioned I am familiar with the sound as an old triumph I owned had same pump system but I've failed to hear any ticking on this car !!! I've been avidly reading the documents on the Australia website and I'm beginning to understand the logic behind the fuel system and ancillary solenoids and sensors ect .I guess it's time to dust off my spanners and remember what working on a real car involves(I've been spoilt by start and go modern motors for too long )
Thank you for your help I will begin investigating this week and report my findings

Chris

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post #4 of 92 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Geoff

Post note I forgot to say I've reviewed the pipe work and they look to be in good order and connected correctly however I will check for blockages on my day off Friday thank you once again

Chris

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post #5 of 92 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 03:09 PM
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Chris,

If you can't hear the ticking of the dual SU fuel pump then:

1. You don't have one, but the Pierburg rotary vane pump instead. (Very unlikely if this was a UK delivered car).

2. Your hearing's gotten worse over the years (and mine certainly has).


I have a 1978 Silver Shadow II that was sold by Jack Barclay in London and is European spec with a dual SU fuel pump and a 1979 Silver Wraith II, US delivery, and Pierburg pump. If you turn the key to the run position without cranking the engine you can definitely hear the distinct ticking of the dual SU on the SS-II (or at least you can if the thing hasn't been started within the last day or so) and the clear whir of the Pierburg pump on the SW-II, which never stops since it's a recirculating system.

Brian
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post #6 of 92 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 05:56 PM
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Chris

I realise this is academic, as you are obviously getting fuel to the carbs, but I always wait to hear the SU pump on my car has stopped ticking as a safety procedure. When I first owned my car I had a jammed float which was causing petrol to be pumped out onto the garage floor right next to a hot exhaust pipe. Not the most desirable of situations.

In addition to Brian's suggestions, maybe you have just got fantastic sound-proofing on your car.

Geoff.
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post #7 of 92 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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To all

Well at fifty my hearing has certainly faded and I'm unsure as to my soundproofing on my uk spec car ? Lol .But I do allow a short interval after switching on ignition prior to starting and as you have said I'm obviously getting lots of fuel to the carbs and I'm certainly very aware this fuel leak needs to be dealt with (fire extinguisher is to hand) I have a stainless exhaust on order (arriving in a few weeks ) so I'm keen to get the carbs sorted I need to get the car to my very local mechanic (2 miles away lucky me) who also owns a very nice mk1 shadow and a 1929 Buick .im hoping the uk spring sun we are having stays until my day off fri so I can have a closer look at carbs .i may have to get my car too my guru around the corner and work an extra shift and get him to fix this problem aswell as fitting the exhaust I'm certain I can fix it myself and save money but I do work long hrs and spare time is hard to find right now .Its a watch this space until the weekend and I can decide what I can do
Thank u all for posting I must say its refreshing to feel part of a good natured community who enjoy passing wisdom and good will to fellow RR owners
Chris

Silver shadow MKII 1977 SRH31709
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post #8 of 92 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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I will have. A good look at my pump also this weekend as I will ask my mechanism to confirm A... It's an su version and B... It's working both sides as I've heard that they can fail one side .... Just want to get my small things fixed and start using her then do a rolling resto

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post #9 of 92 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 12:49 PM
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Chris,

Your situation sounds not unlike mine with both of my cars. The first one was running when I got it and I drove it from Georgia to Virginia to get it home (with, I learned, one of the brake systems essentially non-functional). I am still doing a constant "rolling restoration" on that car and will for as long as I have it. I really should say I'm doing a rolling revival, since I have no aspirations to concours restoration.

The second car was barely running when I got it and I now have it that it will start and run for quite a while, but will still typically quit after anywhere from 15 to 30 minutes running. It's definitely running *way* rich, so I've got carb adjustment work in my future.

I hope to put my Silver Shadow II (the 1978 European Spec car) on the market as soon as I resolve the final leak that I have at one of my accumulator control valves after the rebuild. My patience, and finances, dictate that I only deal with one SY motorcar at any time!!

Brian, who wants his cars as "for fun" drivers - not trailer queens
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post #10 of 92 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Carb float

Ok I do hope I'm not annoying anyone and I have studied the relevant manual this week but I have to ask is there a simple way of getting to the floats without removing the carbs completely? I don't want to remove them if there is a cheat I can do to get the floats corrected even if its just to get her to my garage mechanic in 2 weeks time so as I can order the right carb rebuild kits and have him fit exhaust and refurb the carbs (I sense a bigger bill than anticipated now lol) I am considering all my options I have 1.. Remove carbs and use a kit to refurb them 2... Remove and send them to a carb doctor (we have a well known company an hour drive from here) 3 get her towed to my mechanic (a bit indignant don't u think?) and have him do the work required obviously increasing my bills .
I do enjoy tinkering and being an ex aerospace engineer I get a great deal of satisfaction being methodical and following good manuals and workshop practises the trouble is I often take longer to do jobs but they usually don't need redoing!,,,,

Silver shadow MKII 1977 SRH31709
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