Spark plugs removing, cleaning and refitting, shadow 1 - Rolls-Royce and Bentley Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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Spark plugs removing, cleaning and refitting, shadow 1

Hi All,

My 72 shadow would not start in recent weeks. To cut a long story short I decided to remove and clean the spark plug. I found it a very difficult job and so far I have only got 5 out and cleaned. The car started and is running well howeve I want to get out the three remaining plugs under the brake fluid resivoir. Do I need a special plug spanner? On the other side of the engine I had to remove some pipes and parts which was not difficult. However on the other side where the brake fluid resivoir is I am not so sure about fiddling around as I am not a mechanic. Need some advice here.

Thanks James
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-27-2011, 01:04 PM
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Re: Spark plugs removing, cleaning and refitting, shadow 1

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Originally Posted by James Carberry
Hi All,

My 72 shadow would not start in recent weeks. To cut a long story short I decided to remove and clean the spark plug. I found it a very difficult job and so far I have only got 5 out and cleaned. The car started and is running well howeve I want to get out the three remaining plugs under the brake fluid resivoir. Do I need a special plug spanner? On the other side of the engine I had to remove some pipes and parts which was not difficult. However on the other side where the brake fluid resivoir is I am not so sure about fiddling around as I am not a mechanic. Need some advice here.

Thanks James
What you need is a spark plug socket with universal joint attached then either a long extension or couple of extensions to go under brake fluid reservoir to get spark plugs out. make sure you start screwing new plugs in with your hands as you don't want to cross thread them. you may need to climb on engine to get your hand in on them. Personally I would fit new rather than cleaning.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-27-2011, 03:54 PM
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Spark plugs

It is clear that you are not a mechanic . You should definately change the plugs rather than cleaning them. They are sooo cheap!
Also check the rotor + cap (clean these) and contact points.

At the left cilinder bank you could easy remove the air inlet tube to obtain more working space. Can stand on a little bench when working.

Buy a good wrench toolset with extensions. It's only a 1-time investment.




Could it be a little more perhaps......no, it MUST be more!
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-29-2011, 04:04 PM
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Quoting another who is a much more experienced RR/Bentley mechanic than I:

"I must say that, using a common 3/8" wobble bar, the plugs on a Shadow are the easiest to remove and replace of any car I have ever owned. You may also use a universal joint on B4 in some cases. I never have understood the fuss, but then the first time is the worst.

You can buy a socket set with wobble bar at your supermarket very cheaply.

Use a few extension bars, and you don't even need to lean into the engine compartment except to pull off the HT caps. I trust you will only use NGK plugs as replacements, and preferably Iridium ones which are good for 100,000 - 200,000 miles."

and from another:

"While not as easy as changing the other spark plugs, the difficulty of changing the B4 spark plug is much exaggerated here, mostly by people who have never done it. This is a routine procedure in our shop and usually requires the correct extension, spark plug socket, and universal joint. I use a rubber spark plug boot on the end of a long dowel stick to get the thread of the new spark plug started."

Additionally, do not forget to use antiseize on the plug threads when you replace them, be careful that the plug is not crossthreaded before you tighten it in place, and do not overtighten them.



Brian

The opposite of a correct statement is a false statement. But the opposite of a profound truth may well be another profound truth.
~ Niels Bohr


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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-15-2011, 10:49 AM
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Brian, which plugs do you recommend for a carbed '69 Shadow? Also, I have always used thread lube with copper in it but others recommend the silver (aluminum) stuff. I never found the logic in using aluminum powder to protect an aluminum head! The lube with copper has always worked well for me. So to summerize:

What plugs do you recommend? Gap?

What kind of thread lubricant do you recommend?

What tightening torque do you recommend?

-rick
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-15-2011, 11:49 AM
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I'm a fan of NGK plugs.

If you go with the classic plugs then it's NGK V-Power BPR4EY. Next up the feeding chain is their G-Power GR4P with platinum electrode. At the top of their heap is the Iridium IX GR4IX.

The BPR4EY comes directly from searching for a 1969 Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow at NGK's Part Finder Page. The others are their functional equivalents in their other lines.

The gap should be .025 if your engine is the 6.2 and .035 if the 6.7 should you choose the BPR4EY. If you go for the platinum or iridium plug do not adjust the gap at all. I tend to go for the platinum or iridium plugs since the service life is way longer and I don't have to do any adjustment of the gap.

I am utterly agnostic regarding the specific type of anti-seize used. The conflicting information is rampant, which tells me ultimately that having any chosen antiseize is preferable to having none at all.

The factory recommended torque is 13-17 lb ft or 1.8-2.3 kg m.


P.S. For a 1969 Shadow you only have SU carbs. The entry of the Solex Carb and fuel injection was another 10 to 12 years away. [No one ever accused Crewe of being "early adopters" of anything.]

Brian

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~ Niels Bohr


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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-15-2011, 01:41 PM
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Thanks!

I have always had good luck with NGK plugs. I tend to use their simpler offerings rather than the iridium-magic-quadro-super-dooper versions.

Yes, the arguments abound concerning thread lube. I use the copper stuff and have done so for 20 years. I use it with steel heads too. Makes for smooth, accurate torque settings. Is one better than the other? Who knows?! I just wanted to make sure that there wasn't a strong feeling one way or the other in the R-R community.

I also use the thread lube on lug nuts/bolts and between dissimilar metals such as alloy wheels and steel hubs. Keeps the corrosion to a minimum.

I am a great fan of SU carburettors. I have them on my TR3b and on the Silver Shadow. I don't care for the Z-S units but my opinion is biased by having only owned very worn examples. That said, I have excellent Z-S carbs on my '73 Jaguar E-Type. I've never touched them except for topping up the damper oil. My 308GTB has four 40DCNF Webers and they too never need to be touched. They should be set once, by the book, then the screwdrivers buried in the back yard.

With a little luck, I'll get the fluid clutch on my Shadow's fan repaired or replaced and the car will cool even better. Right now it does a fine job BUT it is 100 degrees F here each day and its tempting fate running the car with the radiator fan all-but free-wheeling on the shaft - especially in stop-n-go traffic!

Again, thanks!

-rick
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-13-2011, 02:51 PM
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Re: Spark plugs removing, cleaning and refitting, shadow 1

.
hi
i am also restoring a RR shadow and had trouble changing the plugs , if you follow w the link i have provided this site is a brilliant sourse of information on virtually every made.
It has every bit of info you will need on any issue you have . just use the drop down menu to get to your car then the data you need .
It also has the full wiring diagrams and every thing .
i hope this not only helps you but anyone else who requires help.
regards
john
RR bentley http://rrtechnical.info/.Technical Service Documents (TSDs)

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>>> Click Here to transfer to the Prewar Library on the Federal Website
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rollmech
Quote:
Originally Posted by James Carberry
Hi All,

My 72 shadow would not start in recent weeks. To cut a long story short I decided to remove and clean the spark plug. I found it a very difficult job and so far I have only got 5 out and cleaned. The car started and is running well howeve I want to get out the three remaining plugs under the brake fluid resivoir. Do I need a special plug spanner? On the other side of the engine I had to remove some pipes and parts which was not difficult. However on the other side where the brake fluid resivoir is I am not so sure about fiddling around as I am not a mechanic. Need some advice here.

Thanks James
What you need is a spark plug socket with universal joint attached then either a long extension or couple of extensions to go under brake fluid reservoir to get spark plugs out. make sure you start screwing new plugs in with your hands as you don't want to cross thread them. you may need to climb on engine to get your hand in on them. Personally I would fit new rather than cleaning.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-11-2012, 02:53 PM
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> Personally I would fit new rather than cleaning.

The days of sand blasting spark plugs are long gone. Plus the risk of getting sand grains (quartz) in the engine is huge. I always replace with new plugs, even in my V12 engined cars. They're just not that expensive.
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